Supercharged Morris Minor 1000 Project

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Its Alive!

supercharged engine running

The supercharger sprung into life at approx 7:30pm on 17th August 2007. It revs very easily but runs a bit rough and there is no idle control yet, so when you let off the accelerator it stalls. Radiator is not connected yet, so I could only run the engine for a minute or so, but at least I know the theory behind the engine setup actaully works. Watch this space for more updates, I may upload a movie or sound clip soon... Thanks to all the MMOC members that have helped me along the way with advice and various parts.

19th August 2007 After much faffing about I have been unable to get the immobilizer to unlock and allow the car to start - so I had to bypass it. I was dissapointed that this only took me 5 minutes - should invest in a better immobilizer! Also spent some time attaching the dials panel ( where the drivers glovebox usually is) the back of some of the gauges foul the metal behind the panel. Looked into tyres for the wolfrace alloys - probably going for 175/70R13 and a fairly decent brand so that I get good grip.


20th August 2007 Busy day today. The radiator has several pipe connectors that I dont need, so I have blocked them off. Also worked on getting the rear supercharger mount sorted, if it doesnt hold the back of the supercharger securely enough the supercharger moves up and down and throws the belt off as the pulleys get out of alignment. Also tried to bleed the brakes again, but still get a really soft brake pedal that easily reaches the floor when pushed. assuming I manage to sort that and the radiator doesnt leak, all I need for the MOT is putting the interior back in, and find some way of holding the bonnet shut, and open when working on the engine. The original bonnet stay got in the way of the supercharger.


21st August 2007 Have transfered this page to be hosted on a better server, so hopefully wont go offline all the time! Also solved the brakes problem, one of the brake pipes was loose, letting fluid out all the time. Also fixed radiator leaks.

24 August 2007 have sorted the starter motor reliability issue, a melted piece of plastic had distorted and was occasionally allowing a short circuit. also solved the fuel pump giving too much fuel, the lever on the float chamber was a little bent, so never properly shut off the fuel supply. When I started it today it revved to about 5000rpm and would not stop until I pulled off the supply to the ignition coil! There must be a large air leak somewhere, I will investigate more tomorrow.


29th August The start motor has packed up altogether now, so cant make any progress until I get a new unit. Done some work on the interior instead, wiring up the gauges power supply and other little jobs. Looking at my engine setup I dont think the standard minor pump can give a high enough fuel pressure. Also I may need to fit the metro turbo "rising rate" fuel pressure regulator.

2nd September Definately need the metro turbo "rising rate" regulator, with a fuel injection fuel pump, the standard pump cant provide enough pressure. I should really scrap the carb and go injection, but this is beyond my budget at the moment. Hopefully with the metro turbo regulator the setup should be similar the metro turbo, which does actually work. For the record, the current setup does work but only at low boost, and the power is very uneven, making it impossible to drive, and the engine often fails to start at all.

metro turbo fuel regulator
5th September Acquired the turbo fuel regulator (above) they go for about £20-£30 on ebay but are available new from minispares for £40. Also won an injection fuel pump on ebay for only £8.50. Need to setup a fuel return pipe back to the tank, as the fuel pump works in a different way to the standard pump. The injection pump is going all the time, and the fuel regulator decides how much fuel is needed, then excess fuel goes back to the tank via a seperate pipe which I will have to install. How the fuel regulator is connected up:

You can ignore the numbers, they are an explanation of how it works, go here if you are interested.

fuel regulator setup

How it works: A diaphragm (2) divides the regulator body into two compartments, the first (3) is in contact with the fuel, the other (4) is connected to the airbox. The spring, factory preset with setscrew (5), adds its pressure (equivalent to 0.25 bar), to the airbox pressure on the diaphragm. On the other side, fuel pressure corresponds to airbox pressure plus 0.25 bar. Excess fuel flow returns back to fuel tank via cone valve (8), controled by the diaphragm. Fuel pressure is so maintained at about 0.25 bar above airbox and carburetor float bowl pressure.

6th September Below is the fuel filler tube, I have drilled a hole in the side and soldered the screwed fitting from the inlet side of the old fuel pump. (Remove the pipe from petrop tank first and wash both parts with water before soldering!) This now means that if I buy another tank to fuel pump copper pipe, and install it backwards the fuel pump end will connect securely to the filler pipe. The other end I will connect to the fuel regulator with rubber hose as the fuel return pipe.

fuel injection modification

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